White Wolf Fian: Tools I used for this project

It was pointed out to me that I neglected to show pictures of the tools I used for this project. This post rectifies that mistake.

Here are all the tools I used for this project, except for the modern steel straight chisel. Instead I included the hand made one that I used for part of the project, until I realized that the edge would not stay sharp like the modern steel. The modern chisel was exactly the same shape and size as the hand made tool.

Full List of Tools:

• Jar of Wood Ash.
• Strip of heavy wool.
• Hacksaw blade mounted into a Medieval Saw frame.
• Lee Valley Brand Carving Knife.
• Modern files one fine and one with both course and medium teeth.
• Large Handmade Twist Drill mounted into a handle.
• Small Handmade Twist Drill mounted into a handle.
• Small hand made straight chisel mounted into a handle.  

I included the hand made ring and dot tool though it was never actually used for the actual White Wolf Fian Bone Strap End Replica.

WWF - Replica Bone Strap-End Progress and Final

 I tried drawing the interlace pattern directly onto the bone but had a hard time getting it to look anything like the original. In the end I traced the original onto the bone using a light graphite transfer paper and a print out of the original from the book.

Here I have done the very basic etching using the tip of my knife to scratch along the drawn lines. I had to etch all the lines at once as the graphite rubbed off the bone very easily.

It is kind of hard to see in this photo but the indented area on the back of the strap has been started. I used my knife to etch a straight line and then a file to actually start removing bone material. I had a hard time keeping the file straight. I clamped a metal ruler along the line and used that as a file stop (used similarly as a plane stop for wood), which allowed me to make the first few passes straight along the line. Once the first few passes were made the lip of the bone served as a file stop.

The deeper carving has begun. I am using a Ramelson Wood Carving Palm chisel to do the deeper cuts and shaping on the carving.

My homemade chisel was not staying sharp long enough to really do the detail work. I will be trying to make another set of tools this summer using tool grade steel rather than the softer steel used for the first run tools.

As I carve the details deeper, I am also going over the frame line more and more to make it deeper than it was before.

 More detail carving done. I originally estimated I would need 60 hours to complete the entire reproduction. At this point I was very near that time limit already.

 The front is finished. At this point I had spent nearly 80 hrs on the replica. That included cutting the bone stock, shaping the strap-end, and doing the carving on the front.

 The back is started. Like the front, I had to trace the lines onto the bone and give them a rough etching with my knife blade to keep from rubbing them off.

The inside of the bone seemed a bit softer than the front. The etching was much easier to complete and the deeper lines, especially the straight lines went much faster.

The interior details have begun. I still can not decide if they are fruit, birds, or human faces.

The red stain is actually my own blood. There is a saying among wood carving that it isn't done until you have bled on it. Well, I bled a lot. While making one of the cross cuts the chisel slipped out of the groove and right across my thumb. I wiped away the blood and found that it had filled the grooves in the bone. After I took the photo I had to take a toothbrush to the groves to remove the rest of it.

 The carving on the back is finished.

 Here is the back of the finished strap-end all cleaned up and polished. You can see the glossy look as I hold it tilted slightly to the light. I used fine wood ash, water, and a piece of wool fabric to polish the bone.

And the front of the finished strap-end. The gloss does not show as well in this picture but it was taken on the same day at nearly the same time as the above photo. The polish did not work as well on the deeper carvings of the front but it still looks nice.

From start to finish this project took about 120 hrs to complete. Spending that much time really makes you appreciate the art and skill of the craftsmen of the 10th Century.

Once I have gotten over the "Never want to look at bone again" attitude I developed during the making process, I want to make a bone buckle that ties into the strap end in some way. Perhaps I will replicate the interlace or perhaps it will have the bird faces on it. I don't think the buckle will be done this year.




This is a photo of the original strap end taken by a visitor to the Museum and posted on Flicker. It shows the details, especially the ladder etchings much more clearly than the photo obtained from the museum directly (see second photo).

In retrospect, comparing my reproduction to the photo of the original, I can see that I made my carving far deeper than the original. Perhaps when it was brand new the original had deeper lines but I do not think so.

I opted to NOT recreate the ladder etchings. I suspect in the original it was added to make it more obvious which straps were up and which were down in the carving. Due to the depth of my carving and the relief aspect that I used, the ladder etchings are not a requirement and I did not feel that they would add anything to my piece.

At a later date I may decide to add the ladder etchings but for now I am done with my replica.

WWF - Replica Bone Strap End Picture Progress

 A flat piece of bone, that was both thick enough on one end and flat enough to accommodate my strap end. This is the second blank I cut out. After cleaning up the gnarly bits on the inside of the bone it was to thin. This piece is almost perfect.

 The drawing from the York Archeological Trust book. Since it is shown at 1:1 scale that makes it much easier for me to verify against my piece. I do plan on carving both sides unless I screw up the front and end up making the piece to thin.

 Cut slightly larger the first time to allow for filing and scraping.

 The hole has been drilled and the outside frame of the front etched into place. The hole was done by drilling three holes and connecting them by cutting out the bits in between with the knife. It was smoothed and leveled with a file.

The edge frame was started with my knife, making a v cut along the edge. A straight gouge and a file were then used to make it slightly wider and deeper.

Doing this part of the decoration did convince me to make a new tool. I took a piece of an old bandsaw blade, bent it over, and attached a handle to it. This scribing tool will make evenly spaced frame lines simply by resting the wooden handle against the edge of the bone and letting the blade dig into the bone itself.

You can see a bit of the gnarly inside of the bone left. I'm afraid to scrape it any more for fear of making it to thin and thus wasting all this effort. Since the back is planned to be carved, I am hoping this depression disappears in the process.

Winter Garb Test Run

Since the Northern Outpost Winter Romp was cancelled we decided to test our winter garb at the local conservation area. Not many people there though one couple thought we were there to murder them, one lady (feeding Chickadees from her hands) didn't bat an eyelash, and one gentlemen interrupted his phone call to ask us what we were doing in costume. I thin this would make an awesome place for a winter demo/ half day event.

Weather was -10ºC with a -15º windchill and it was sunny. We hiked 1.3 km without snowshoes or skis. The trails had previously been broken by other hiders but I found it easier walking in the unbroken areas with my wool boots and leather overshoes. As I get older I definitely find I need more arch support than what turn shoes provide.

I was wearing linen pants and tunic, a thin wool tunic, thin wool pants, wool nalbound socks, a thin wool kaftan, wool nalbound mittens, wool hood, and a wool cloak (double over the back area). On my feet I also had two layers of blanket wool turn shoe boots and leather ankle high turn shoes. The leather boots were treated with beeswax paste and allow to dry for three or four days.

I was perfectly warm, my feet perfectly dry. In fact, once we got into the trees and the wind was mostly blocked I got hot enough to throw back my hood and take off my mittens. I stomped in a water puddle in the parking lot just to test my waterproofing and it worked a charm. No water seeped through the seams or soaked through the leather. The wool boots repelled any water that splashed above the leather over shoes. Slogging through water or slush all day would be uncomfortable but the occasional puddle is no problem.

The only thing I felt lacking was face coverage, especially in the wind. So a scarf of some nature is in order for windy days. I think for sunny days it would be smart to make some snow goggles to cut down on the glare. My ears were a little cold under the thin wool hood so for harsher and longer outings a thicker hood may be in order.

With this garb I can confidently say I can handle a full day 10am to 4pm in -10º to -15º C weather. Any warmer and I will have to drop a layer of wool, my tunic. Any colder and I will need thicker wool garb.